If, however, you’re looking for a more advanced machine for the job, you’ll want to look for features like these: Most all-around machines will do just fine for relic hunting. Read more about the best metal detector for coins. Relic hunting For all-purpose coin and jewelry hunting, stick to a single frequency VLF detector when first starting out. These are built more for saltwater hunting and gold prospecting. You’ll also want to avoid a pulse induction machine – or PI for short. Frequency and depth have an inverse relationship, so the higher you get, the less depth you’ll get on coin-sized targets. As long as you stay under 15 kHz, you’ll be just fine for coin shooting (both silver and clad). One thing you want to make sure of here is that you do not buy a machine with too high frequency like one designed for gold prospecting (you can read our guide here on the detectors for gold nuggets). Most machines are designed for coin and jewelry hunting – especially those priced under $600 or so. However, there are also special machines for different uses. Manufacturers design most detectors as all-around detectors for coins, jewelry, and relics. The type of hunting you plan on doing makes a major difference in what machine you buy.
Luckily, that buys just enough machine to get you hooked. Most new hobbyists tend to spend $150-$300 on their first detector. Not everyone has $800 to drop on a hobby they aren’t sure they’ll even like. This may be the biggest factor of them all, especially when you’ve never tried a metal detector. I don’t consider anything below that to be a real detector. Look for a beginner or mid-range detector in the $150-300 range with a focus on user-friendliness. Features like notch discrimination, custom search modes, audio modes, enhanced tones, GPS function, etc, make a detector cost more. What makes one detector better than another (like cars) is the additional features and enhancements. There’s no quicker way to become frustrated with the hobby than buying a complicated detector with too high a learning curve.Īll metal detectors detect all types of metal – like all cars drive down the road. If no, then you’re probably going to want to start with a beginner metal detector that’s easy to use. Have you ever detected before? If yes, you skip this section and move on.
The purpose of this article is to break everything down in real terms, so you have a much better idea of which detector is best for YOU! Skill levelsįirst and foremost, let’s talk about your experience with metal detecting. To answer that question, there are a few factors that may or may not affect your decision-making process. The question you should be asking is, “what is the best detector for the type of hunting I want to do, where I live, my experience, and my budget.” It’s meant to take the guesswork out of your buying decision.
This buying guide will explain what to look for when choosing your first metal detector.
You may also be interested in the best metal detectors under $200. Read our complete guide to choosing the best metal detector for kids. Stick to the basics.įor young treasure hunters, I typically recommend starting out with Bounty Hunter. You may also want to get a machine that’s relatively easy to use with not a lot of settings. Depending on the age of your child, you might want to start with a detector that’s not super heavy. The only real difference is going to be weight and probably budget. KidsĪll the same rules above still apply when shopping for children. Read our complete guide on the best metal detectors for gold. If you want the best gold prospecting detector, go with a Minelab. Most of these machines will be PI and should be used in areas where gold is known to be found. Prospecting machines can range from $500 all the way up to $10,000. Not ideal for relic hunting or gold prospecting.